This is a one month extract from Gary's diary...

1st February 2004
3rd February 2004
4th February 2004

5th February 2004
6th February 2004
7th February 2004

8th February 2004
9th February 2004
10th February 2004
11th February 2004

12th February 2004
13th February 2004
14th February 2004
15th February 2004

16th February 2004
17th February 2004
18th February 2004
19th February 2004
20th February 2004
21st February 2004
22nd February 2004

24th February 2004
25th February 2004
28th February 2004
2nd March 2004
3rd March 2004


Diary Extract - 2004

8th February
On breaking camp and returning to my cabin I noticed tracks in overnight snow, evidence of a lone wolf passing while we slept. A passing pack would be less likely to go unnoticed and make me somewhat twitchy. Waiting for violent storms to abate in my tent on sea ice can be a little anxious too. The thought of ice breaking up underneath me while I sleep is only surpassed with the vision of a pitiless crushing white blow punching through my tent. No-body survives a polar bear attack so the thought of being emptied onto ice is never a warm one.

The dogs' finer sensory perception gives them a different world of understanding and emotion to mine, or yours. In poor light a dog's eyes are able to trace and expose minute movement. Their noses have a fifteen times greater area for smelling than a human's. On top of it all their hearing is nearly five times greater than our own.

Pingo and his henchman brother Hansel are demon fighters and smart with it. They buy me time to de-fuse life threatening wildlife confrontations. They shadow me like bodyguards. Curled close, sniffing, watching and prepared they anticipate trouble. Pingo and Hansel were obviously just not bothered last night.

Despite dogs receiving free rabies immunization every year reports of rabid wolves hassling dogs in Arctic communities are normal and I think of the reported killings in Inuvik this year.
 

Sasha enjoys life on her totally synthetic PetLife's Vetbed. This material remained dense and ice free. Some synthetic furs tend to ice up offering no insulation.
Wolf tracks, twice the size of a man's fist, often give the impression of a loner. Sometimes on closer inspection it's possible to see where a pack has followed a trailbreaker by planting their feet in exactly the same footing. Too cold to grow, too tough to die, rickety and gnarled stunted black boreal larch trees endure another brutal winter.
Wolf pack trail-breakers are rarely pack leaders. Leaders are known as Alphas and on the move they'll be the only one with its tail held high. In the Arctic wolves are distinguished on their behaviour and distribution. Here, on the tree line they'll be tundra wolves. Further south they call them timber wolves. Tundra wolves don't have territories but the prey density determines how this pack ranges. All the moose sightings are an obvious indication to why there's so much activity on the Mackenzie River this winter.
 
Here the larch and birch grow very, very slowly. Those with trunk diameters of 8cm are around 400 years old. A microscope is needed to identify the annual growth rings. Less than 60km from here, the tree line finally gives way to spindly willows and tundra. Just millimetres thick these willows are just as old.
 
We soon ran into another moose around noon. We're 97km from the Arctic Ocean. There, in good visibility on flat pans of ice, I can see a good 5km all around. At that distance a polar bear, wolf or Arctic fox will be able to smell the dogs and me. Here on the Mackenzie visibility is down to the next bend and banks of haggard boreal larch. Close wildlife encounters are not good news. Attacks from moose do happen. With legs like ranch posts they can be defiant in trampling and hurdling sled dog teams and drivers. I've heard of a complete team and driver being killed in Alaska. Today our moose meeting thankfully passed without incident. We arrived back safely this afternoon.
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