Foggy start. Raw north wind. I caught, gutted, cooked and shared a 10 lb lake trout with the dogs. Delicious. Geese pass overhead south with their broods.

A beautiful lake trout gave us a wonderful feast this evening. The fishing outfit I carry is ultra-lightweight. My rod breaks down into four sections and reel is smaller than a clenched fist. Where creeks run into lakes feeding fish congregate.

Downloaded pictures. Recharge digital camera and 40 GB FlashTrax mobile hard drive. Good progress. Clear skies all day. Walked round camp with no shirt on. Not exactly a bear deterrent. Found grizzly bear’s old musk ox kill. A grim looking find. Bears had eaten the entire musk ox.

Saw grizzly bear immediately after breakfast. Crossed the Hornaday. Saw Inuit fish camps netting the run of Arctic char. I kept clear fearing a dogfight. They had dogs in camp to ward off grizzlies though Jason Ruben walked out to introduce himself. “The fishing is good,” he said.

Rained all afternoon. Charged by a loan grizzly.

Saw 6 pairs of owls hunting a single area in the evening. Found and collected a bundle of tundra swan feathers. Areas today were like freshly ploughed fields where grizzlies had ripped down through the tundra to hunt ground squirrels. What an awful way to die.