11.15pm. Flown in by floatplane
southeast of the Horton River in the western Arctic. I felt
violently sick on the flight. The Arctic tundra, where there
isn’t a single tree is, during the brief summer, home
to some of the most amazing migratory wildlife. To note the
barren land grizzly bear.
1 Saturday 14th.
2 Sunday 15th.
Phoned co-ordinates at and co-ordinates travelling
to. Overcast. Saw caribou mothers with calves.
Day 3 Monday 16th.
Foggy start. Raw north wind.
I caught, gutted, cooked and shared a 10 lb lake trout with
the dogs. Delicious. Geese pass overhead south with their
A beautiful lake trout gave us a wonderful feast this evening.
The fishing outfit I carry is ultra-lightweight. My rod breaks
down into four sections and reel is smaller than a clenched
fist. Where creeks run into lakes feeding fish congregate.
4 Tuesday 17th.
Downloaded pictures. Recharge digital camera
and 40 GB FlashTrax
mobile hard drive. Good progress. Clear skies all day. Walked
round camp with no shirt on. Not exactly a bear deterrent.
Found grizzly bear’s old musk ox kill. A grim looking
find. Bears had eaten the entire musk ox.
The evidence was there. Masses
of bear paw prints, crap and bitten through splintered bones
littered this site.
5 Wednesday 18th.
Navigated in fog all day. Find bear craps with
eggshells, old obviously this late in the season.
6 Thursday 19th.
Saw two grizzlies. No confrontation. Good headway.
Saw tundra swans in the evening and hunting fox. Phoned in with
7 Friday 20th.
A grizzly came into camp last night.
He charged, Pingo bayed relentlessly and stood his ground. The
bear cleared off. 11.40pm. Foggy as well. Get into Paulatuk
12.30pm. Good to meet up with old friend Gary Reidford and stay
with him overnight.
8 Saturday 21st.
Couple of miles west of Hornaday
River. Ready to cross it tomorrow. Hard going across foreshore.
9 Sunday 22nd.
Saw grizzly bear immediately after breakfast.
Crossed the Hornaday. Saw Inuit fish camps netting the run
of Arctic char. I kept clear fearing a dogfight. They had
dogs in camp to ward off grizzlies though Jason Ruben walked
out to introduce himself. “The fishing is good,”
Rained all afternoon. Charged
by a loan grizzly.
Saw 6 pairs of owls hunting a single area in the evening.
Found and collected a bundle of tundra swan feathers. Areas
today were like freshly ploughed fields where grizzlies had
ripped down through the tundra to hunt ground squirrels. What
an awful way to die.