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| Day
20 Thursday 2nd. |
| Once the Outwash River had been
crossed we’d moved from the Northwest Territories into
Nunavut. This boundary divides the west from the eastern Arctic.
Approaching the halfway point, approximately 200 miles covered.
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| Day
21 Friday 3rd. |
| Week 3. 0°C. Watched for whales
during rest period. A physically tough day but we made our distance,
10 miles. |
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| Day
22 Saturday 4th. |
–1°C and snow flurries
settle. We made our way along 12 miles of shoreline, where icebergs
nudged the shore and were gripped by the shingle beach. Walked
underneath cliff face where an old golden eagle eerie was made
up from drift wood twigs. A lone fledgling lay dead underneath.
Further on I found a wolf skull. The cliffs have many caves
and would surely have been dens for wolf cub litters. |
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| Day
23 Sunday 5th. |
| 12 miles travelled. Grizzly prints
all along shoreline from Tinney Point to the Croker River. Crossed
the Croker River later in the day, 4.30pm. It then snowed, so
I made camp, fast. |
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| Day
24 Monday 6th. |
| -2°C. Sunrises at 6am. Morning
of snow flurries. Turn our backs to the ocean and head inland
as planned to Kugluktuk (Coppermine). No sign of tundra petals
on flower heads now. Stream edges freeze. Mocked by four peregrines.
One came straight at me head height at speed then veered off.
Sunset at 9.10pm. Up for a 3am pee. The northern lights rippled
like a curtain in a cosmic breeze. |
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| Day
25 Tuesday 7th. |
| -5°C, overnight snow settles.
With the wind howling everything all of a sudden appears very
severe, until, drying afternoon sun makes it vanish. Tomorrow
the dogs and I rest. |
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| Day
26 Wednesday 8th. |
| Second and last rest day. Phoned
in co-ordinates and state of affairs. Given news today of secured
dog food sponsor for major journey I’ve planned for 2006.
Thousands upon thousands of bush fires continue to rage in Alaska
and the Yukon I’m told. This morning the smoke here was
incredible and the hazy sun gave a downtown L.A. atmosphere.
Did a little sewing to mend rips in gear. |
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| Day
27 Thursday 9th. |
Early in the day we climb down
a canyon that towers over the Inman River. After crossing
the river and climbing the canyon’s other side Pingo
turns and gets dangerously close to the edge. He frightens
me when he does this and I tell him off like a dad would a
child he loves dearly.
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| My pack doesn’t seem to feel
any lighter. 10 miles covered today were a slog. This afternoon
I slumped down on the tundra to rest. Pingo came up and nuzzled
me. He rested too and curled up beside me with those eyes looking
over that dense white plumed tail of his. I’m into a rhythm
set on nothing else but to keep moving forward. At times like
this I rely on the dogs most to let me know what’s around.
They seem to switch on to this. Pingo goes ahead and Hansel
drops behind, leaving me to keep driving forward with the colossal
weight (120lbs) on my back. The dogs are capable of carrying
a third of their body weight in their pack payload. I’m
carrying three quarters of my body weight. Daytime temperature
was 6°C so at least it was a warm slog. |
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| Day
28 Friday 10th. |
6°C. Another hard day with the pack.
Grey all day, only interest was seeing a pair of beautiful
snowy owls. Plump and perched on a rock they eyed us up as
we passed and took off in front with minimal effort skimming
the tundra for something to snag with those massive beaks.
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I camped alongside a lake where
geese have spent the entire summer to rest, lay, hatch and
rear their broods. Scant tundra grass tussocks have been pulled
and lay in rows. Over the summer this has dried and now provides
me hay like bedding to make deep snug nests for Pingo and
Hansel, be it for only one night.
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During long bouts of fatigue it would be
all too easy to ignore hygiene. I don’t. I keep clean-shaven,
check myself over and tend to cuts and scrapes. With so many
river and creek crossings my feet are perpetually wet during
the day.
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At night I dry my feet, douse
them with medicated zinc oxide powder and change into night
dry Horizon
socks. These socks I keep in an Outdoor
Design dry bag. My nether regions get the zinc oxide treatment
too. At night I let the dogs feed then run my hands over them
to check them over for any problems. This usually ends with
me giving them both a massage. This they adore. The tundra
has been very gentle on their feet.
The first aid kit I carry for the dogs is comprehensive,
light and was put together by Ruff
Wear. This US company also manufactured my dog packs.
These packs have been faultless throughout the journey. My
own first aid kit was selected from safety in the workplace
experts Seton.
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| Day
29 Saturday 11th. |
| Today I had no spare effort for
anything but being totally focused on moving forward. If it
wasn’t for the dogs stopping and pointing into the direction
of something they’d caught whiff of I’d have been
isolated in my own world of ignoring fatigue. This mental state
is what I train for before any journey. I’m very familiar
with it and as usual push beyond it. I annihilate all thoughts
looking to hinder progress. I can only be sure about one thing
here and that’s the way I think and piece everything together
to get out of every potential life-threatening situation. Above
all it means being positive at all times. |
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