This is an extract from Gary’s diary

13th August 2004
14th August 2004
15th August 2004
16th August 2004
17th August 2004
18th August 2004
19th August 2004
20th August 2004
21st August 2004
22nd August 2004
23rd August 2004
24th August 2004
25th August 2004
26th August 2004
27th August 2004
28th August 2004
29th August 2004
30th August 2004
31st August 2004
1st September 2004
2nd September 2004
3rd September 2004
4th September 2004
5th September 2004
6th September 2004
7th September 2004
8th September 2004
9th September 2004
10th September 2004
11th September 2004
12th September 2004
13th September 2004
14th September 2004
15th September 2004
16th September 2004
17th September 2004
18th September 2004
20th September 2004
21st September 2004
22nd September 2004
23rd September 2004

 

 
Day 20 Thursday 2nd.
Once the Outwash River had been crossed we’d moved from the Northwest Territories into Nunavut. This boundary divides the west from the eastern Arctic. Approaching the halfway point, approximately 200 miles covered.
 
Day 21 Friday 3rd.
Week 3. 0°C. Watched for whales during rest period. A physically tough day but we made our distance, 10 miles. We stop to rest. I scour the ocean in the hope of spying a bowhead whale or momentarily daydream about the shapes icebergs have conjured up.
 
Day 22 Saturday 4th.
–1°C and snow flurries settle. We made our way along 12 miles of shoreline, where icebergs nudged the shore and were gripped by the shingle beach. Walked underneath cliff face where an old golden eagle eerie was made up from drift wood twigs. A lone fledgling lay dead underneath. Further on I found a wolf skull. The cliffs have many caves and would surely have been dens for wolf cub litters.
The upper jaw of the wolf skull.
 
Day 23 Sunday 5th.
12 miles travelled. Grizzly prints all along shoreline from Tinney Point to the Croker River. Crossed the Croker River later in the day, 4.30pm. It then snowed, so I made camp, fast. The prints are old and the bear’s hopefully long gone.
 
Day 24 Monday 6th.
-2°C. Sunrises at 6am. Morning of snow flurries. Turn our backs to the ocean and head inland as planned to Kugluktuk (Coppermine). No sign of tundra petals on flower heads now. Stream edges freeze. Mocked by four peregrines. One came straight at me head height at speed then veered off. Sunset at 9.10pm. Up for a 3am pee. The northern lights rippled like a curtain in a cosmic breeze.
 
Day 25 Tuesday 7th.
-5°C, overnight snow settles. With the wind howling everything all of a sudden appears very severe, until, drying afternoon sun makes it vanish. Tomorrow the dogs and I rest.
 
Day 26 Wednesday 8th.
Second and last rest day. Phoned in co-ordinates and state of affairs. Given news today of secured dog food sponsor for major journey I’ve planned for 2006. Thousands upon thousands of bush fires continue to rage in Alaska and the Yukon I’m told. This morning the smoke here was incredible and the hazy sun gave a downtown L.A. atmosphere. Did a little sewing to mend rips in gear. Bush fire smoke blown from thousands of miles away all but obliterates the orb of the sun
 
Day 27 Thursday 9th.

Early in the day we climb down a canyon that towers over the Inman River. After crossing the river and climbing the canyon’s other side Pingo turns and gets dangerously close to the edge. He frightens me when he does this and I tell him off like a dad would a child he loves dearly.

 

We had a canyon to cross before negotiating the Inman River.  After hauling ourselves up the other side I thought the feat deserved a picture.
My pack doesn’t seem to feel any lighter. 10 miles covered today were a slog. This afternoon I slumped down on the tundra to rest. Pingo came up and nuzzled me. He rested too and curled up beside me with those eyes looking over that dense white plumed tail of his. I’m into a rhythm set on nothing else but to keep moving forward. At times like this I rely on the dogs most to let me know what’s around. They seem to switch on to this. Pingo goes ahead and Hansel drops behind, leaving me to keep driving forward with the colossal weight (120lbs) on my back. The dogs are capable of carrying a third of their body weight in their pack payload. I’m carrying three quarters of my body weight. Daytime temperature was 6°C so at least it was a warm slog.
 
Day 28 Friday 10th.

6°C. Another hard day with the pack. Grey all day, only interest was seeing a pair of beautiful snowy owls. Plump and perched on a rock they eyed us up as we passed and took off in front with minimal effort skimming the tundra for something to snag with those massive beaks.
 

Hundreds of snow geese head south as we continue in a south-easterly direction. My CIBA Vision disposable contact lenses, asthma preventative, vitamin and iron tablets all go a long way to enable a sense of well-being when life isn’t easy.

I camped alongside a lake where geese have spent the entire summer to rest, lay, hatch and rear their broods. Scant tundra grass tussocks have been pulled and lay in rows. Over the summer this has dried and now provides me hay like bedding to make deep snug nests for Pingo and Hansel, be it for only one night.
 

During long bouts of fatigue it would be all too easy to ignore hygiene. I don’t. I keep clean-shaven, check myself over and tend to cuts and scrapes. With so many river and creek crossings my feet are perpetually wet during the day.
 

I’m mildly asthmatic and carry my inhaler wherever I go. medical and veterinary gear to deal with possible nasty moments.

At night I dry my feet, douse them with medicated zinc oxide powder and change into night dry Horizon socks. These socks I keep in an Outdoor Design dry bag. My nether regions get the zinc oxide treatment too. At night I let the dogs feed then run my hands over them to check them over for any problems. This usually ends with me giving them both a massage. This they adore. The tundra has been very gentle on their feet.

The first aid kit I carry for the dogs is comprehensive, light and was put together by Ruff Wear. This US company also manufactured my dog packs. These packs have been faultless throughout the journey. My own first aid kit was selected from safety in the workplace experts Seton.

 
Day 29 Saturday 11th.
Today I had no spare effort for anything but being totally focused on moving forward. If it wasn’t for the dogs stopping and pointing into the direction of something they’d caught whiff of I’d have been isolated in my own world of ignoring fatigue. This mental state is what I train for before any journey. I’m very familiar with it and as usual push beyond it. I annihilate all thoughts looking to hinder progress. I can only be sure about one thing here and that’s the way I think and piece everything together to get out of every potential life-threatening situation. Above all it means being positive at all times.
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