


This is
Gary's spring diary 2005
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| March
- April 2005
400-mile, twenty-two day round trip from
Inuvik to Liverpool Bay (Amundsen Gulf)
in Canada’s western Arctic. |
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| Day
1, March 19th |
Drove
the ice road to Tuktoyaktuk with friends in a truck towing a
purpose built dog trailer loaded with my team. Collected cache
from Henry Nasogaluak’s place. For re-supplies or food
caches I pack my grub, dog food, gear and fuel into airtight
dry bags before cramming into 60 litre Rutabaga
barrels. Fuel I segregate from food.
Blue wolf and wolverine furs had joined Henry’s fur pile.
I noticed the polar bear skin was still there. At 4pm, in bleak
stormy conditions with loaded sled and dogs ready, I headed
east waving a quick goodbye. At 6pm I made camp. We’ve
made only two miles. Bomber slipped his collar at 9.30pm and
I nipped out in only my base layers. He came to hand quickly
and I got him back on before diving into my tent stinging cold.
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| Day 2,
March 20th |
I
was up at 1am getting Bomber back on to his chain, again.
His collar is now tight. Breakfast at 7.30am before six hours
travel covering twelve miles. Henry mentioned polar bear hunters
were out in front of me making for Baillie Island. Apparently
others will follow. Baillie Island is a dead cert for polar
bears. Water is open year round there and seals present themselves
as plentiful fodder for cuddly bears to crunch skulls as if
made of eggshell.
Before breaking camp a hunter from Tuk’ pulled up on
his snowmobile for a chinwag. Introducing himself, Pat Gruben
looked impressive with his huge wolf fur mitts and wolverine
trim around his parka hood. No buttons or zips only claws
for hooks. He said he was out for wolves or wolverine and
pin pointed on my map where he was heading for. I noted he
was heading where we wanted to go. Useful, a fresh trail,
good start, we’ll make the most of this. Breaking trail
over tundra with a laden sled is no joke. We’ll be on
Pat’s trail for a couple of days before breaking out
on to the ice of Husky Lake.
A surprise. Henry found my camp this evening and stopped.
He’d been out hunting and gave me a fresh caribou hind
leg. Dog shit on my mukluks warmed in the loft of my tent.
I was careful falling bits missed my food. From memory, it
doesn’t taste pleasant.
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| Day 3,
March 21st |
Covered
thirteen miles in seven hours. Passed a dead caribou this morning.
Foxes scattered and ravens lifted like disturbed looters. This
afternoon we slid on to Husky Lake ice. The temperature dropped
as we left tundra terrain. Ran or walked beside my sled throughout
bright perfect weather. |
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| Day
4, March 22nd |
Made
twenty miles in seven hours, I walked or ran beside my sled.
Dogs look strong and happy fed on Nutrience
Active. Spoons and Blitz I’ve left behind in Inuvik. They’re fed on Nutrience
Junior. Little Spoons will experience her first heat while
I’m away.
Best day yet spoilt with Saxon exploding into volcanic brawl
with anyone around him. In seconds four dogs were piled on
top of him and his muzzle was ripped into a gaping bloody
mess. He wasn’t fussed and was still looking for more
once I’d calmed the situation. Blood pumped out of his
face and spattered snow all around him until a clot formed.
A close look revealed it looked worse than it actually was.
I thought we’d resolved this nonsense, obviously not.
It’s very heavy on my head when they perform like this.
Tomorrow I have no choice but to slot Saxon nearest my sled
and have everyone else in front. This way he won’t swing
around to fight those behind him. Instead he’ll have
me snarling at him for a day or two.
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| Day
5, March 23rd |
Twenty-two
miles covered in seven hours, with one-hour dog rest stoppages.
We traversed Campbell Island and all day could see a DEW line
site (Defence and Early Warning) as I habitually scanned the
ice behind for anything furry following us. Looking like giant
golf balls these radar sites were built and manned during
the Cold War, at strategic points along the entire Arctic
coast. A useful thing to know, these sites have a telephone
inside you can use. Not to order pizza but for dire emergency
purposes.
It was a joy to cheer my dogs on as they pulled hard all
day through perfect weather, a calm -20ºC. Will it last?
We’re camped on Liverpool Bay ice, at the cliff’s
edge. Navigation will be easy enough as this edge leads to
our next heading, Nicholson Island. Phoned in my co-ordinates
and those I’m heading for. My satellite phone airtime
for this journey comes from a Roadpost
pre-paid card (looks like a credit card) that simply slots
into the phone, vital for safety, communicating progress,
interviews and talking to my veterinary if necessary.
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| Day 6,
March 24th |
Mild
weather continues. Last night I slept without a hat on. We had
months of forty below weather before Christmas. It’s refreshing
not having to trawl through eight inches of clothing to locate
my willy for a squirt. Nudged forward eighteen miles in our
seven hours travel. Cream chewed his collar. I wasn’t
excited about this misdemeanour and told him so.
I saw a caribou herd on a ridge before they bolted out of
sight. Piston pulled like a dog possessed. Nettle I noticed
pulled like a drip. She’s coming out of her heat cycle
with a mind obviously elsewhere, Twizzle’s doing well,
Marshall too. Saxon spent all day wanting to fight. He tends
to bore me when he’s like this. This I told him at the
same time suggesting he might want to pick a fight with me.
Saxon is a wonderful dog but I want him to prove to me he’s
capable of sustaining his power to pull and concentrating
instead of all this muscling for supremacy from his team-mates.
This I explained to him.
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