This is Gary's spring diary 2005

March 19th, 2005
- March 24th, 2005
March 25th, 2005
- March 30th, 2005

March 31st, 2005
- April 5th, 2005

April 6th, 2005
- April 9th, 2005

 

March - April 2005
400-mile, twenty-two day round trip from Inuvik to Liverpool Bay (Amundsen Gulf)
in Canada’s western Arctic.

 
 
Day 1, March 19th
Day one. I head east out off Tuktoyaktuk.Drove the ice road to Tuktoyaktuk with friends in a truck towing a purpose built dog trailer loaded with my team. Collected cache from Henry Nasogaluak’s place. For re-supplies or food caches I pack my grub, dog food, gear and fuel into airtight dry bags before cramming into 60 litre Rutabaga barrels. Fuel I segregate from food.

Blue wolf and wolverine furs had joined Henry’s fur pile. I noticed the polar bear skin was still there. At 4pm, in bleak stormy conditions with loaded sled and dogs ready, I headed east waving a quick goodbye. At 6pm I made camp. We’ve made only two miles. Bomber slipped his collar at 9.30pm and I nipped out in only my base layers. He came to hand quickly and I got him back on before diving into my tent stinging cold.
 
Day 2, March 20th

My unsavoury mukluks swing.I was up at 1am getting Bomber back on to his chain, again. His collar is now tight. Breakfast at 7.30am before six hours travel covering twelve miles. Henry mentioned polar bear hunters were out in front of me making for Baillie Island. Apparently others will follow. Baillie Island is a dead cert for polar bears. Water is open year round there and seals present themselves as plentiful fodder for cuddly bears to crunch skulls as if made of eggshell.

Before breaking camp a hunter from Tuk’ pulled up on his snowmobile for a chinwag. Introducing himself, Pat Gruben looked impressive with his huge wolf fur mitts and wolverine trim around his parka hood. No buttons or zips only claws for hooks. He said he was out for wolves or wolverine and pin pointed on my map where he was heading for. I noted he was heading where we wanted to go. Useful, a fresh trail, good start, we’ll make the most of this. Breaking trail over tundra with a laden sled is no joke. We’ll be on Pat’s trail for a couple of days before breaking out on to the ice of Husky Lake.

A surprise. Henry found my camp this evening and stopped. He’d been out hunting and gave me a fresh caribou hind leg. Dog shit on my mukluks warmed in the loft of my tent. I was careful falling bits missed my food. From memory, it doesn’t taste pleasant.

 
Day 3, March 21st
This caribou won’t see summer but wolves and foxes living off it will.  Covered thirteen miles in seven hours. Passed a dead caribou this morning. Foxes scattered and ravens lifted like disturbed looters. This afternoon we slid on to Husky Lake ice. The temperature dropped as we left tundra terrain. Ran or walked beside my sled throughout bright perfect weather.
 
Day 4, March 22nd

I don’t know why Saxon looks sorry for himself here. Minutes before his spiked fangs were intent on inflicting maximum pain. He wasn’t bothered who but didn’t bank on coming off worst. Made twenty miles in seven hours, I walked or ran beside my sled. Dogs look strong and happy fed on Nutrience Active. Spoons and Blitz I’ve left behind in Inuvik. They’re fed on Nutrience Junior. Little Spoons will experience her first heat while I’m away.

Best day yet spoilt with Saxon exploding into volcanic brawl with anyone around him. In seconds four dogs were piled on top of him and his muzzle was ripped into a gaping bloody mess. He wasn’t fussed and was still looking for more once I’d calmed the situation. Blood pumped out of his face and spattered snow all around him until a clot formed. A close look revealed it looked worse than it actually was. I thought we’d resolved this nonsense, obviously not. It’s very heavy on my head when they perform like this. Tomorrow I have no choice but to slot Saxon nearest my sled and have everyone else in front. This way he won’t swing around to fight those behind him. Instead he’ll have me snarling at him for a day or two.

 
Day 5, March 23rd

Travelling under Liverpool Bay cliffs.Twenty-two miles covered in seven hours, with one-hour dog rest stoppages. We traversed Campbell Island and all day could see a DEW line site (Defence and Early Warning) as I habitually scanned the ice behind for anything furry following us. Looking like giant golf balls these radar sites were built and manned during the Cold War, at strategic points along the entire Arctic coast. A useful thing to know, these sites have a telephone inside you can use. Not to order pizza but for dire emergency purposes.

It was a joy to cheer my dogs on as they pulled hard all day through perfect weather, a calm -20ºC. Will it last? We’re camped on Liverpool Bay ice, at the cliff’s edge. Navigation will be easy enough as this edge leads to our next heading, Nicholson Island. Phoned in my co-ordinates and those I’m heading for. My satellite phone airtime for this journey comes from a Roadpost pre-paid card (looks like a credit card) that simply slots into the phone, vital for safety, communicating progress, interviews and talking to my veterinary if necessary.

 
Day 6, March 24th
Wise Bomber rests at every given moment.   Mild weather continues. Last night I slept without a hat on. We had months of forty below weather before Christmas. It’s refreshing not having to trawl through eight inches of clothing to locate my willy for a squirt. Nudged forward eighteen miles in our seven hours travel. Cream chewed his collar. I wasn’t excited about this misdemeanour and told him so.

I saw a caribou herd on a ridge before they bolted out of sight. Piston pulled like a dog possessed. Nettle I noticed pulled like a drip. She’s coming out of her heat cycle with a mind obviously elsewhere, Twizzle’s doing well, Marshall too. Saxon spent all day wanting to fight. He tends to bore me when he’s like this. This I told him at the same time suggesting he might want to pick a fight with me.

Saxon is a wonderful dog but I want him to prove to me he’s capable of sustaining his power to pull and concentrating instead of all this muscling for supremacy from his team-mates. This I explained to him.

 
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