This is Gary's spring diary 2005

March 19th, 2005
- March 24th, 2005
March 25th, 2005
- March 30th, 2005

March 31st, 2005
- April 5th, 2005

April 6th, 2005
- April 9th, 2005

 

March - April 2005
400-mile, twenty-two day round trip from Inuvik to Liverpool Bay (Amundsen Gulf)
in Canada’s western Arctic.

 
 
Day 7, March 25th
Tired.Daily mileages have exceeded those I’ve planned for. It’s come about because of wonderful ice conditions. I’d have been happy with fifteen miles per day. Up until yesterday, with our payload heaviest this first week, I’ve walked or run beside my sled to push and pull with my dogs. There’s been no sprinting. Today I skied our nineteen miles. It took us seven hours. The tips of my ski tips clashed once or twice like duelling sabres. It didn’t take long to cross Nicholson Island. We’re camped north of Wood Bay at the mouth of the Anderson River. On the shore is a 1920’s cabin Arctic explorer Stefansson built and lived in. Surprising because I don’t notice much driftwood on the shoreline. The Anderson doesn’t source from Canada’s forested interior.

Snowdrift and clouds blow over in the wind. At twenty below zero it felt colder tonight. I reason it’s because I’m tired. There’s another DEW line site behind us, with another phone where I’m tempted to phone for a pizza.

 
Day 8, March 26th
Tonight’s blood curdling cold sun sets.Shot first film footage this morning. Covered sixteen miles in five hours, forty miles directly north is Baillie Island. This famous polar bear hunting location is where tourist hunters pay $Cdn20,000 to kill a bear. I’ve never met one of these hunters to be other than American.

I made camp tonight where the Mason River spews out into Liverpool Bay. I’m happy to take a rest day tomorrow. Dogs have worked well. I’m pleased. They should be too. Tonight I ate as much food as was physically possible. I watched the stove air my Horizon socks in the tent loft and think what they’ve endured this last year. They’ve kept their shape, my feet blister free and healthy.

 
Day 9, March 27th

Our rest day camp.A rest day was just that. I didn’t budge from my Wiggy’s sleeping bag until noon. Fed my dogs half their feed. After their initial yawns and stretches I watched them spread out to relax. I mended Cream’s harnesses. I don’t think he’ll be bothered the thread I used isn’t matching.

Checking through supplies and spare gear on my sled I was pleased some of it hasn’t been called into action. I packed Ruff Wear booties and a dog coat in case one of my dogs’ feet needs isolation through injury or an open body wound requires protection. The cold tends to prolong healing if I cut fur away to stitch a wound. Beautifully made, I did leave this gear outside before the journey to see how the materials coped with forty below zero. As usual I’m unforgiving with everything used. After putting a set on one dog for a test they worked great and materials didn’t falter a bit.

 
Day 10, March 28th

The gear rack on my sled secures ice-screws and necessary tools such as ice axe, rope and ice knife for emergencies.This morning through very deep snow I had to strap on my Tubbs snowshoes and break trail ahead of my dogs. The process is achingly slow. Without snowshoes I’d have been up to my waist in snow, which isn’t fun.

Around noon a polar bear hunting contingent on snowmobiles pulled up alongside me at the mouth of Mason River. The Inuit guide was overjoyed to see a dog team travelling the way things were done years ago. The client, an American, strolled up and interrupted loud and rude. Pouting he said, "Hey, I wanna keep moving". Apparently the American didn’t get his bear. Drip. Tomorrow we’ll be heading back to Tuktoyaktuk too, without pouting.

Tonight snow is so deep instead of ice screws I anchored the dogs’ stakeout chain with my snowshoes acting as a deadman snow anchor at either end.

 
Day 11, March 29th

Nettle sings alone to a sinking sun.We made it west of Nicholson Island. I noticed a relic from the past, tatty coral fencing used to graze reindeer (not caribou) during Arctic summers. Reindeer were herded here years ago in a pathetic attempt to create a ready meat supply. It took years and years to get reindeer here and days for wolves to pull in and create havoc. I believe it was a sad Danish idea.

Saxon spoilt what should have been a decent day. Tonight Saxon’s very last move as I was getting dogs out of their harnesses was, you guessed it, he just had to start fighting. What is it with him?

 
Day 12, March 30th
Canine Panzer tanks.I’m forever looking to encourage my dogs. Today opportunities came thick and fast as we powered hard into a - 30ºC head wind all day. The cold left no room for joy. Chinks in my face protection had snow hit me hard like shards of steel. I worked my skis alongside the determination of Piston and Bomber. Together there was a rhythm as we kept moving forward. I fell into my tent pole-axed with tired tonight. I knew I’d be feeling worse if I hadn’t eaten bite size PowerBar chunks previously cut up and dipped in flour. The flour prevents the pieces sticking together before freezing. I stash my daily allowance in front of my Arktis chest rig. Tasty PowerBars are the only sports nutrition bars I've used capable of maintaining and providing carbohydrate and protein nourishment throughout prolonged physical effort in extreme cold. I’ve trained and used them on journeys over the last two years. They’ve definitely improved my performance. I don’t do placebo. Gulping PowerBar Performance Sports Drink I know from experience I won’t ache in the morning.

Not in a smug way, I was pleased I’d spent so long preparing what I ate on this journey with care. I’ve always considered pre-packed grub sold as ‘expedition food’ as a convenient rip-off. It’s always tastes dull too. Look at the ingredients on the packaging. It’s always clear making it up yourself is cheaper and you can determine ingredients to be of superior nutritional value. Food dehydrators and vacuum packing machines smaller than a regular microwave and costing around the same are a wise investment. Ovens work. An oven will dehydrate an elephant if you chop it up into daily portions.

 
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