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Greenland’s east coast Ittoqqortoormiit is the remotest
inhabited place in the western world, home for 500 people and
over 500 working Greenland dogs, the only breed allowed by law
above Greenland’s Arctic Circle. In Ittoqqortoormiit there’s a
resident doctor, a dentist visits once a year, opticians rarely.
It's a tough place. Reach 12 and kids can legally carry hunting
rifles. Dog teams drive between houses and it can snow any month
of the year. With luck an icebreaker re-supply ship comes twice
yearly. Outsiders coming to work here have been known to freak
out, panic and want out because it's so isolated. This is where
I now live. Study Greenland maps and you’ll find regions marked
“UNKNOWN” or “UNEXPLORED”. These areas begin less than 250 miles
from my backdoor.
I
have dogs again. Dog hairs are on my clothes and life is
beginning to feel rosy once more.
Any Greenlandic community with electricity is known as “a city”.
We have electricity and a store that sells anything from baby
food to firearms, digital cameras to narwhale nets. What I eat
is determined by what I recognise from food packaging pictures.
The language barrier is proving to be interesting. At the moment
I speak neither Danish nor Greenlandic and by the sound of both
it could be a while before I pick-up either lingo. People spoke
of dangerous “cleavages” before I realised they meant crevasses.
It is a mighty expensive place to live or phone. Flying to New
Zealand from here is cheaper than making it over to west
Greenland.
The first month I was here two polar bears were shot near my
place. I held the claws of one that was shot. They were longer
than my fingers. I watched hunters flense a narwhale at the flow
edge while someone pointed out a swimming polar bear.
Rightly
or wrongly the Canadian police (RCMP) have been accused of
slaughtering 21,000 dogs during the 1960s and 1970s to
immobilise the Canadian Inuit. Even now the controversy
continues to the reason why. Within a decade the Canadian Inuit
went from a semi-nomadic life to living in houses. It was one of
the most rapid periods of social change for any ethnic group in
all of human history.
Never again will working dogs dominate the Canadian north but
recent DNA study results have proved that Greenland Dogs and the
Canadian Eskimo Dog are in fact genetically the same breed and
it’s for this reason I moved to Greenland.
In Greenland the atmosphere for dogs is a different story.
Here dogs are living cultural icons. Greenland has over 20,000
working dogs. Laws are strict to make sure the breed remains
pure.
 I
was two solid weeks building kennel boxes for my dogs. The site
caused quite a stir since people here had never seen dog kennels
before. They said it looks like a little town of its own and
wondered if I were to get drunk wouldn't it be confusing to know
which “house” I would choose to sleep in. It’s also been going
around that people think it funny I speak English to my dogs.
Hunters go out sitting in tiny boats strapped on top of their
sleds. A lot of hunting is done from the ice edge. Seals are
shot for dog food. Hunters row out these dinky boats to retrieve
dead floating seals. In winter and spring seals float because
they are so fat. Rowing back it's best not to tie a seal
to the boat. A walrus can weigh around two tons sometimes three
and regularly grab dead seals taking boats down with them. Miss
the seal and a walrus will attack and launch itself on to the
boat using its two-foot long tusks as barbs into the back of a
hunter. Not good. Apparently it’s an appalling site and very
difficult to remove an impaled hunter from a walrus. Enough to
spoil anyone’s day.
Mid-May an old Greenlandic hunter shouted excitedly to me, “Big
animal coming in”. With its single spiraled tusk I watched
within a little crowd as dogs hauled a unicorn-like narwhale out
of the water. The old and young folk were all smiles because for
them this means food. By law west Greenland whale hunters must
hunt with harpoons from kayaks. Here on the east coast no law
exists. The whale was shot.
My pups Gus and Bigness were looking good.
May bought in the last of the winter storms. Permanently inside
my house is a piece of plywood. The plywood is window size and
I’ve driven nails part way around the edge. I swear one day a
window will pop and I hope I'm home else I'll have a snow filled
house. I wouldn’t like to come home to a bear inside either. It
does happen.
My hands reaction to the cold again is good although for the
moment I don’t go anywhere without
HeatMax chemical
hand-warmers.
Throughout May I went hunting seals with an ex-SIRIUS Patrol
friend of mine, Martin. The SIRIUS Patrol is an elite Danish
military unit whose purpose is to maintain Danish sovereignty,
police jurisdiction and military surveillance in northeast
Greenland by dog-team.
Out hunting seals I heard what I thought was the jingle from an
ice cream van. It didn’t sound far away. I looked around
expecting to see one. It was Martin’s mobile. It had us in fits
of laughter.
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